Friday, 7 June 2019

NSW NORTH COAST - MERRIWA, BULAHDELAH, COFFS HARBOUR & MULLUMBIMBY

The wind had died down heaps, so with the battery topped up we headed north from Lake Lyell around 10 Thursday morning (day 8) after a big walk around the camp area. There were some really nice little non-powered sites tucked away all around the foreshore. It was a relaxing, easy run up the Castlereagh Highway with the music pumping. I'm sure my voice is improving. After a lunch break at Mudgee we headed northeast on Ulan Rd then the Golden Highway to Cassilis. The comments on WikiCamps about camping/eating at the Bowling Club were very good, but I didn't feel right when I got there, and with plenty of time up my sleeve decided to push on to Merriwa just 40 km further east. We pulled into the basic and not pretty dirt carpark behind the RSL in the middle of town and I backed up to the fence line. Happy with my parking....got it first time! Had a nice dinner at the RSL, used their free wifi, had a little play on the slots and was tucked up in bed early.




MERRIWA RSL CAMPING AREA is a carpark. I felt safe there with other travelers in for the night, but could be a bit uncomfortable if I was alone. It's at the back of the main street with rear access to the RSL. Handy for one night. OZ Gran's Free Camp list rating is a 2.

I was awake early Saturday morning and with the outside temperature around zero, felt it was time to move to warmer climes sooner rather than later. We left Merriwa at eight for a very quiet and picturesque drive southeast through the beautiful Hunter Valley toward the South Pacific Ocean, before picking up the Pacific Highway to head north. Temperature at midday was 18 degrees....the warmest I'd seen for a week. We lobbed into Bulahdelah Lions Park some 252 km later in time for lunch. A really nice spot to prop. I invited the grey nomads in vans either side to join me for a drink in front of my warm fire before dinner. It was great to have some company and a chat.




BULAHDELAH LIONS PARK is just off the Pacific Highway nestled beside the Myall River. It has enough space to take maybe 30 vans, is level, clean and water available to top up the tanks in the van. A donation box is beside the tap. The small township is a very short stroll across the bridge and has a pub with a beer garden that looks out over the water, small shopping strip, coffee shops and amenities block. It's great for a one night stopover though you do hear the road noise from the highway. I rate it 3.5. 

It was drizzling in the morning but we went for a walk around town anyway. After putting some water into my completely empty tanks, I drove to the showgrounds and bowling club to check out the free/cheap camping there. Not bad. No doubt quieter and more space at the showground. I used the dump point to empty the dunny before filling up with fuel at $1.449 Lt. A reasonable price. We were heading north on the A1 by 10.30. I really enjoyed driving the Pacific Highway. Divided dual lane pretty much all the way with 110 km speed limit (90 for me), not much traffic being Saturday, by-passes all towns and quite interesting scenery. A breeze to drive the 300 km to Coffs Harbour (which is not by-passed) where I pulled into Bunnings to get a gas bottle swap around 3.30. I played the damsel in distress card and my gas bottle was changed for me by a very kind Bunnings man named Noel. Nice. 

Our destination was 15 km further on at a place called Bucca. I'd booked Coffs Harbour Camping & 4WD the night before on the Youcamp site for $15.54 per night. It was a 230 acre farm that was rated five stars by 161 users. Caretaker Bruce welcomed us and led us into a huge paddock with three horses in it and told us we could camp wherever we liked as there was no-one else staying. After a bit of a chat I set up on top of the hill looking across a valley, collected some wood from the adjacent timbered area and settled into the usual evening routine - fire, wine, food - in that order.



I liked the space and solitude so much I decided to spend another night. James absolutely loved it! He bounded around that paddock like puppy and wasn't even scared when the horses came to check him out. We did a bit of exploring Sunday morning and found a lily pond and stream at the bottom of the hill. It was a very pretty environment.




Coffs Harbour is renown for its beautiful beaches so we went on a bit of a sight-seeing tour, checked out the Jetty Market and had breaky. I thought James would love a run on the beach so took him to the leash-free area. He was such a cry baby - didn't cope at all with other dogs running, playing and barking. He couldn't wait to get back in the car. Sook! Cool and overcast from daybreak, it started to rain. We went back to camp where it continued to drizzle into the evening -  a great excuse to do very little and settle into listening to a new audio book, Tears of the Moon by Di Morrissey. I was drawn into it from the get go.

My friend and fellow Roller, Karen, was house sitting in Ocean Shores, just north of Byron Bay. It had been my plan from the outset to meet up with her for a few days. With no free camping available in that area I booked into the Mullumbimby Rugby Leagues Club campground from Monday till Friday morning. A powered site beside the river was $30 per night - as cheap as I could find in the area. It was 224 km north on the A1. We packed up and left our Youcamp farm in cool, clear weather around 10.

COFFS HARBOUR CAMPING & 4WD, while not strictly speaking a free camp, gets a rating. 4.5. I really enjoyed the beautiful, private environment and the host, Bruce, was a nice bloke who I only saw when I chose. I felt very comfortable. The Youcamp online booking system is very user friendly and when I decided to stay the second night I paid my $15.54 by credit card online. I will definitely use Youcamp again.

Google Maps directed us via the back route, Orara Way, toward Grafton, along narrow, windy roads with pretty scenery. At Grafton we picked up the Pacific Highway once again, but it was nothing like the fantastic road system we'd been on a couple of days before. The 136 km stretch was single lane for the most part with roadworks and constant speed limit changes from 40, 60, 80 and an occasional 100 kph. It was a bit wearing and I ended making two stops, the first at the quaint little town of Ulmarra, nestled beside the massive Clarence River and the second at New Italy Rest Area just off the highway. I needed a little nanna nap in the van.




The highway returned to a great divided multi-lane carriageway after Ballina from where it was a quick run to Mullumbimby. Karen phoned and said she would meet me at the Leagues Club at 3 o'clock bearing bubbles and nibbles. Yay! I backed the van into my really stunning spot beside the Brunswick River and had time to set up and take James for a walk before she arrived. James squealed with delight when he saw Ellie

, Karen's dog. He clearly remembered her from our previous caravan trips together. I suspect he may be in love! It was sooo good to sit by the river in the sun, watch the fish jumping and have a chat and a laugh with a familiar face.




Overnight the wind really started to howl. I was relieved I hadn't pulled the awning out. The forecast predicted it would hang around for a few days but it did ease off a bit later in the morning which was excellent as I was looking forward to a beach walk with Karen and the two dogs. James and I drove over to Ocean Shores mid morning, picked up Karen and Ellie then went to the local foreshore produce market. It was very alternative with lots of young hippy people and dreadlocks everywhere. We grabbed some fresh fruit, veggies and dips. We were on the beach just before midday. It was beautiful. The pristine northern NSW beaches go for miles with  fine golden sand that is gorgeous to walk on.




After a yummy lunch at Hooper's fish and chippery in nearby New Brighton, Karen gave me a guided tour of the area. We headed south into macadamia nut country, bought some delicious warm honey coconut macadamias, then onto Ballina, took the car ferry across the Richmond River to check out the stunning beach at South Ballina and returned home via Lennox Head. The kids in the back seat were very well-behaved!







Wednesday was a hoot. After a beach walk the four of us took a drive inland to the the hippy/hemp capital of Australia, Nimbin. About 70 km away, the narrow roads snaked over hills and through valleys of the lush Northern Rivers area. The alternative lifestyle village is very strange, as are the inhabitants. A throw-back to the seventies, the tiny main street area is full of brightly painted, psychedelic, frontier-style buildings, references to cannabis everywhere, cafe's and market stalls that spill out onto the footpath and musicians sitting cross-legged on the ground playing weird music on weird instruments. We shared a delicious wood-fired oven pizza and a glass of sav blanc for lunch then did a tour of the candle factory where we were shown the art of candle-making.










Two weeks on the road. So far so good. I hadn't, however, played a game of golf and given my clubs and buggy were taking up a swag of space under my bed I really needed to get some use out of them. Mullumbimby Golf Club had a deal whereby after two o'clock you could play as many holes as you liked for ten bucks. Great deal! So Thursday after a walk along the Brunswick River and a huge barra burger at the ancient and somewhat rustic Billinudgel Pub, Karen and I hit the fairways. I even played ok. Yay!


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