As I left Alice Springs I truly felt I was on the last leg of my 16 month journey, but there were a few more experiences on my way back south that I wanted to indulge in. Uluru, Kata Tjuta and Kings Canyon were not far off track and with the Covid impact of low tourist numbers it was perfect timing. I had left Kate and Julia`s early afternoon on September 16, so going the full 500 km distance to Ayres Rock Resort where I was booked was not really an option. Close to half way stood Erldunda Roadhouse right on the intersection of the Stuart Highway and Lasseter Highway, and Wikicamp reviews were excellent. I checked in, pulled up in a large, open, red sand area with a bit of shade and stayed hitched. It was a great overnighter with plenty of freedom for James away from other vans and a beautiful sunset to boot. We even met a couple with their pet macaw whilst wandering with a wine in hand before dusk.
The 270 km trip to Yulara the next morning saw us pushing into some hefty quartering headwinds that not only made for very high fuel consumption but also required my undivided attention to keep the van from getting a sway up. I was really excited about seeing Uluru and kept scanning the horizon hoping for a glimpse. About halfway along the Lasseter Highway a huge monolith loomed ahead. Wow - it looked amazing! As I approached I started to realize it didn`t look right. It had a flat top and Uluru doesn`t. A lookout a little further along the road clarified for me that it was actually Mount Connor. It was very impressive.
After a hard 3 hour drive and I was relieved to arrive at the resort around midday and set up the van in the fairly empty caravan park.
Normally at this time of year Yulara/Uluru would packed with both Australian and international tourists - but Covid meant this iconic, world heritage listed destination was operating at maybe 20% or less. Very sad for business operators. Surprisingly it was an overcast afternoon - warm and windy with high humidity. I was hoping for rain so I could witness the fairly rare occurrence of waterfalls running off Uluru. Before nightfall James and I made our way up to the lookout behind the caravan park. It was not a night for a sunset but lovely nonetheless. We did get some short showers overnight but not enough to be of any consequence.
I set the alarm for 5.30 next morning so I could make the 15 minute drive to the Sunrise Viewing Area. The skies had cleared and I had a fabulous view of `The Rock` as it changed color from pre-dawn till daylight. It was, however, fucking freezing. Thank goodness I took a hot coffee with me!
After the sunrise I headed a short drive down the road and did the Kuniya Walk at the southern side of Uluru. The easy 1 km track ended at the Mutitjulu Waterhole, home of Wanampi, an ancestral watersnake. Plaques alongside the track tell the story of how Kuniya and Liru (the woma python woman and poisonous snake man) helped create Uluru.
Back at the van I had a late breaky before taking James to explore Ayres Rock Resort. Once again it was eerily quiet in the Mall and most businesses were closed including the indigenous art galleries which I was hoping to visit. I did stop at an almost empty bar for a glass of bubbles which cost $12 - won`t do that again!
Late afternoon I left James in the van for the second time that day and made the 50 km drive to Kata Tjuta (The Olgas). In many ways it`s more spectacular than Uluru. In Pitjantjatjara, the language of the traditional owners of the land, the Anangu people, Kata Tjuta means `many heads` - an apt description.
There are two walks at Kata Tjuta - Valley of the Winds and Walpa Gorge. I figured I would get both in before sunset, which I did. I only did the short version of the Valley of the Winds walk to Karu lookout and true to name it was windy as hell!
From the gorge I drove to the sunset viewing area and watched the truly beautiful color changes on Kata Tjuta and the background sky as the sun went down.
Before I left Alice I had booked to do the Field of Light tour on Saturday evening. That was my last night at Ayers Rock Resort as I had bought a `pay for two nights & get three` camping deal for $114, so was leaving Sunday. I still had to do the Mala walk to Kantju Gorge, so Saturday morning I headed back to `the Rock`. Mala walk is an easy, flat track that follows along a one kilometer section of the base of Ulura. There are several significant Anangu sites for both men and women along this walk with details and traditional stories explained on several placards enroute.
It was my favorite walk and one where I could not only see evidence of a culture dating back many thousands of years but could feel a sense of spirituality.
At the Mala walk and other various walking tracks and viewing sites around Uluru there are lots of amazing timber bench seats, most of which are under shelters made of completely natural timber with grass thatched rooves. Absolute works of art.
After my Mala walk I drove my second loop of Uluru, only clockwise this time. Every time I looked at this huge monolith I saw and felt something different...something very special. I think it`s appropriate that climbing it is now taboo, though I must admit to climbing it myself in the 1990`s and scaring myself shitless! When I now look at steep and dangerous that climb is I am not surprised that more than 30 people died in the process from when visitors began climbing it in the late 1930`s through until October 26, 2019 when it was closed.
Six o`clock that night a luxury coach picked me up from the caravan park and transported me, along with 30 or so other people, to a sand dune at the back of the resort overlooking Uluru. As the sun sank in the western sky we were plied with wine, beer, champagne and a delectable, individually boxed assortment of canapes while taking in the stunning views. Then, as the sky darkened, the massive field below came alive with lights. It was magnificent.
Sunday morning I packed up camp, hitched the van and left Yulara around 10am. Getting to Kings Canyon meant backtracking along the Lasseter highway for about 150 km before turning north onto Luritja road. From there it was about another 170 km to Watarrka National Park in which the George Gill Range and Kings Canyon are located. There are two camping options in the area - Kings Creek Station at the entry to the park and Kings Canyon Resort some 40 km further in and closer to the canyon. Wikicamps had iffy reviews on both and I had spoken to other travelers who had given varying reports. I pulled into the station and went for a bit of a wander. It was not very impressive so I made the decision to continue on. I would pay for one night at the resort and if not happy with it could always come back. But on arrival at Kings Canyon Resort I was actually pleasantly surprised. I checked in for one night paying $30 for a power then chose a lovely site with views out over the range.
Before dark James and I headed up to the sunset viewing platform. It was a great spot with beautiful views and a retro caravan that has been made into a bar. Unfortunately that was closed due to Covid but most of us who had strolled over from our vans and tents had a drink in hand so it didn`t matter. James, as usual, did the rounds and picked up a few friends.
I was up bright and early next morning to do the Kings Canyon Rim walk before the sun got too hot. From conversations I`d had at the viewing platform the evening before it appeared there were quite a few of us doing the same thing which was good given it was supposedly a pretty challenging climb in parts. I was happy to have others around in case something went awry. The information leaflet read `....has many steep sections and is only recommended for reasonably fit and healthy walkers`. As I stood at the bottom of the canyon at 8am looking up at the initial climb I considered that was a bit of an understatement! The rough stone steps went pretty well straight up a sloping side of the gorge to the top in one go....not for anyone scared of heights! I had to stop and get my breath on several occasions. I could see why there was a medical station at the top with an emergency phone, defribillator and heli-pad!
But the views and photo opportunities were worth every bit of the effort!
Atop the going was a lot easier though there was still a lot of clambering to do around, between and over a beehive-like maze of weathered sand stone formations and undulating rock. The many unguarded sheer drops of the canyon walls were stunning but could also be treacherous if one was not sure-footed. The views were incredible.
About half way around the 6km loop there is a very steep descent down into the end of the canyon to the Garden of Eden, a beautiful area of riverine vegetation with a deep waterhole. Being a sacred indigenous site swimming is not permitted although I must admit it would be really tempting to jump in in hot weather.
After a strenuous climb back up from the rock hole it was time to take a breather before continuing on the second part of the trail to see the opposite wall of the gorge. It was interesting to photograph across to the spots I had stood on the edge and taken photos. I was pretty buggered towards the end so the somewhat easier down hill track to the carpark was a welcome relief. The Rim walk had taken me just on three hours and I was pleased I had avoided the afternoon heat. It's a fantastic walk if you are reasonably fit with no heart or lung problems, wear solid gripping footwear and watch your step. If heights scare you.....forget it!
With only two short walks still to do at Watarrka National Park I decided I would leave next morning and do both those walks on the way out. I had planned to stay a third night but apparently, so a resort staff member told me when I got back to camp after the Rim walk, James had carried on a treat in the van for hours the day before. Bugger! I reckon he gets scared when I leave him in the van and drive off in the car. By doing the final two walks as I left he would be in the van with the car attached and just see me walk away - not drive away. That seemed to work fine cos I didn`t hear a peep as I was leaving or returning.
The 2 km Kings Creek walk follows the canyon floor about two thirds the way up. The roughly formed pathway meanders along-side the currently empty creek bed and amazing rock formations. At the end is an aesthetically appropriate platform that is built around some of the huge sections of canyon that have collapsed down into the gorge. The view from below of the sheer walls above is stunning.
It was late morning by the time I departed Watarrka National Park. My experiences in the Red Centre exploring Kings Canyon, Uluru and Kata Tjuta were wonderful and I will carry the breathtaking images in my mind forever. There is a real spirituality about this region of Australia and I have developed an even stronger empathy and respect for the traditional land holders. It`s incredible that their culture has flourished in this beautiful but harsh environment with which they have clearly lived in harmony for well over 40,000 years.
