HOMEWARD BOUND - MARLA, COOBER PEDY & LAKE HART - THEN HOME

After just on sixteen months on the road Kings Canyon ticked off the last box on my `places to visit` list. My next destination was home - Yarrawonga, Victoria - just 2306 kilometers south east. I embarked on that journey on Monday September 21. I was in no hurry. In fact in many ways, while I was looking forward to going home, I was a bit uncertain about how I would cope with normal day to day living. I love being alone on the road, living in the moment, being free, no obligations, few responsibilities and no expectations or pressures from other people. It`s a very, very indulgent way to live. But I have a beautiful home and garden to look after, friends and family I`m dying to see and, if I want to, I can always hit the road again at any time and most certainly will anyway to avoid the next southern winter. At least the harsh Covid restrictions of the past few months have been eased in regional Victoria (not so for Melbourne still in severe Stage 4 lockdown), and we can now cross the Murray to play golf and enjoy the more relaxed Club lifestyle in NSW.

Erldunda Roadhouse where I had stayed on the way to Uluru seemed like the logical overnighter to start with. It was just on 250 kilometers down the road, put me on the Stuart highway and I had enjoyed being there last time. I paid my $15 for an unpowered site and picked a nice spot on the grass. Before sunset James and I made our way to the viewing platform up between the camel and emu enclosures and with wine in hand enjoyed watching the outback sun drop below the horizon. Beautiful as always!

It was not a restful night, however. The van battery (which is 9 years old) was on its last legs and I was trying to eek out its life till the end of my trip. Unfortunately it decided to emit its very annoying persistent low warning beep in the wee hours. Bugger! The lead would not reach the nearest power point so I had to shift sites in the middle of the night. I would need to be more careful with the use of lights and the water pump if it was to survive the last seven days of  travel.

Marla was my destination next day. It`s a tiny town and roadhouse just 250 km down on the Stuart highway crossing the border from NT into South Australia. It was a beautiful day and an easy, straight, flat drive. I was quite relaxed listening to an audio book, quite loudly I must admit to be able to hear above the road noise, when a car pulled in front of me and a bloke waved me down. In the rear camera I saw a second car with a bloke in it pull up behind. Mmmm......in the middle of bloody nowhere and I have no idea why these guys have pulled me over. The bloke in front got out and I must admit to a flood of relief when a lady gets out of the passenger side. `You better have a look at your tyre`, he says. I get out and fuck me.....one of my tyres is absolutely shredded! I can`t believe I didn`t feel or hear a thing.

Thank goodness Rod, Trev and Nicky came to my rescue. The boys took charge, jacked up the van and put the spare on. I was so appreciative. Fortunately there wasn`t too much damage apart from the tyre itself and the fairing around the wheel well. Even the rim was ok as the rear tyre had held it off the road....very happy I have a dual axle van. It could have been a very different story otherwise.

I drove the rest of the way to Marla with the audio system off and paying a lot more attention to what was going on with the car and van. With no spare tyre I took it quite slowly and when I arrived at Marla Roadhouse late in the afternoon I made a beeline for the bar and ordered bubbles. Next morning I drove around to the local mechanical workshop and the lovely man there fitted a new tyre for a very reasonable $230. 

I hit the road pretty early next day as I was going to Coober Pedy and wanted time to explore the interesting opal mining town. It has a bit of a reputation as a pretty rough place so while I was hoping to freecamp rather than pay for a caravan park, I would only do so if there were other travelers camped there as well. As it turned out there were heaps of others set up on the rough dirt of the Old Timers Mine RV area. I found myself a spot and pulled in, leaving the van hitched. I then hit the town on foot. 

 

Coober Pedy is certainly a unique town. It`s famous not only for its opal but also for its fascinating underground lifestyle. Many of the homes, hotels, churches and restaurants are tunneled into hillsides and are almost invisible on first inspection. Its population of 3,500 is made up of 47 different nationalities who have come to strike it lucky since opal was first discovered in 1915. The first miners called it the Stuart Range Opal Fields, but it was renamed Coober Pedy in 1920, the name being derived from the local indigenous Anangu words meaning `white man in a hole`. The area is quite moon-like with shafts and mullock heaps dotted as far as they eye can see. It`s a very messy, space with disused, rusty old mining equipment and car wrecks scattered all over the place.

 

I ended up staying two nights, not only because there was lots I wanted to see, but also because the forecast winds on the Friday were southerly at 50kmph. Not the sort of headwind you want to be towing a two and a half ton van into. James and I spent that cool, windy day driving around the town visiting many of the tourist attractions including:

An underground house:

Underground churches:

An underground hotel:

And the golf course:

While camped at Coober Pedy I got to know some of the other nomads. I recognized one couple, Jeff and Jackie, from the sunset viewing platform at Kings Canyon. We got talking about where we were headed to and their next destination was Lake Hart. They`d been there a couple of weeks earlier and said it was a great spot overlooking the empty saltpan. It was a good option for me so we agreed to meet up there. It proved to be a great decision, not only because it was a terrific freecamp but also as the recent rains had filled the lake up. It was stunning!

Once I left Lake Hart I started to experience get-home-itis. I decided instead of taking a further four nights on the road I would do a few more k`s each day and arrive Wednesday. I freecamped at Bowman Park just outside of Crystal Brook, Red Cliffs Golf Club near Mildura and finally at Reedy Lake north of Kerang. I had just enough wood with me to have a fire each night which was great as it was bloody cold and with my van battery fading quickly I needed to stay outside and minimize use of power. And it was lovely to sit with James by the fire and make the most of the final remnants of my nomadic lifestyle.

I arrived home at Yarrawonga, Victoria about 1.30pm on Wednesday September 30th. I had been on the road for sixteen months and seven days and had driven just over fifty thousand kilometers. My experience had been unbelievable and a journey filled with many challenges, tribulations, heartaches and joys. I had pushed myself beyond my fears and felt proud that I had successfully gone solo around OZ.  

SEPTEMBER 2020 COVID-19 STATISTICS & SITUATION

1/3/20

Global Infections:  86,604              Australian Infections:  25

Global Deaths:   2977                  Australian Deaths:   0   

1/4/20

Global Infections:  871,371            Australian Infections:  4763

Global Deaths:   42,107         Australian Deaths:  20

1/5/20

Global Infections:  3,322,966            Australian Infections:  6766

Global Deaths:  234,408         Australian Deaths:  93

1/6/20

Global Infections:  6,259,224            Australian Infections:  7,195

Global Deaths:  373,691         Australian Deaths:  103

1/7/20

Global Infections:  10,795,162            Australian Infections:  7,920

Global Deaths:  518,058         Australian Deaths:  104

1/8/20
Global Infections: 17,745,673            Australian Infections: 16,905

Global Deaths: 682,197          Australian Deaths: 197

1/9/20

Global Infections: 25,892,091            Australian Infections: 25,819

Global Deaths: 860,323          Australian Deaths: 657

1/10/20

Global Infections: 34,150,555           Australian Infections: 27,078

Global Deaths: 1.018,212          Australian Deaths: 886

Covid-19 is out of control across the entire globe with true infection and death rates undoubtedly much higher than reported as poorer countries with massive populations do not have the capability to test and identify. 

Most Australian states are Covid free or close to it. Victoria is still fighting to get numbers down and has gone from 700 odd cases a day down to under 20. That has come at a huge cost with Greater Melbourne still in stage 4 lockdown and everyone suffering terribly from months of confinement to their homes. The economic fallout is disastrous. 

Regional Victoria, where I live, still has restrictions but we can dine out, meet in small groups and travel regionally. Every Victorian has to wear a mask while in public. Victorians are banned from all other states with the exception of communities within 50km of the NSW border - they can cross over but go no further than 50km. Western Australia and Tasmania`s borders are closed to the rest of Australia. 

ERLDUNDA, AYRES ROCK RESORT, ULURU, KATA TJUTA & KINGS CANYON (WATARRKA NP)

As I left Alice Springs I truly felt I was on the last leg of my 16 month journey, but there were a few more experiences on my way back south that I wanted to indulge in. Uluru, Kata Tjuta and Kings Canyon were not far off track and with the Covid impact of low tourist numbers it was perfect timing. I had left Kate and Julia`s early afternoon on September 16, so going the full 500 km distance to Ayres Rock Resort where I was booked was not really an option. Close to half way stood Erldunda Roadhouse right on the intersection of the Stuart Highway and Lasseter Highway, and Wikicamp reviews were excellent. I checked in, pulled up in a large, open, red sand area with a bit of shade and stayed hitched. It was a great overnighter with plenty of freedom for James away from other vans and a beautiful sunset to boot. We even met a couple with their pet macaw whilst wandering with a wine in hand before dusk.    

The 270 km trip to Yulara the next morning saw us pushing into some hefty quartering headwinds that not only made for very high fuel consumption but also required my undivided attention to keep the van from getting a sway up. I was really excited about seeing Uluru and kept scanning the horizon hoping for a glimpse. About halfway along the Lasseter Highway a huge monolith loomed ahead. Wow - it looked amazing! As I approached I started to realize it didn`t look right. It had a flat top and Uluru doesn`t. A lookout a little further along the road clarified for me that it was actually Mount Connor. It was very impressive.

After a hard 3 hour drive and I was relieved to arrive at the resort around midday and set up the van in the fairly empty caravan park.

Normally at this time of year Yulara/Uluru would packed with both Australian and international tourists - but Covid meant this iconic, world heritage listed destination was operating at maybe 20% or less. Very sad for business operators. Surprisingly it was an overcast afternoon - warm and windy with high humidity. I was hoping for rain so I could witness the fairly rare occurrence of waterfalls running off Uluru. Before nightfall James and I made our way up to the lookout behind the caravan park. It was not a night for a sunset but lovely nonetheless. We did get some short showers overnight but not enough to be of any consequence. 

I set the alarm for 5.30 next morning so I could make the 15 minute drive to the Sunrise Viewing Area. The skies had cleared and I had a fabulous view of `The Rock` as it changed color from pre-dawn till daylight. It was, however, fucking freezing. Thank goodness I took a hot coffee with me! 

After the sunrise I headed a short drive down the road and did the Kuniya Walk at the southern side of Uluru. The easy 1 km track ended at the Mutitjulu Waterhole, home of  Wanampi, an ancestral watersnake. Plaques alongside the track tell the story of how Kuniya and Liru (the woma python woman and poisonous snake man) helped create Uluru.

After the walk I did a counter-clockwise circuit around the rock. The faces vary so much and are breathtaking.

Back at the van I had a late breaky before taking James to explore Ayres Rock Resort. Once again it was eerily quiet in the Mall and most businesses were closed including the indigenous art galleries which I was hoping to visit. I did stop at an almost empty bar for a glass of bubbles which cost $12 - won`t do that again!

Late afternoon I left James in the van for the second time that day and made the 50 km drive to Kata Tjuta (The Olgas). In many ways it`s more spectacular than Uluru. In Pitjantjatjara, the language of the traditional owners of the land, the Anangu people, Kata Tjuta means `many heads` - an apt description. 

There are two walks at Kata Tjuta - Valley of the Winds and Walpa Gorge. I figured I would get both in before sunset, which I did. I only did the short version of the Valley of the Winds walk to Karu lookout and true to name it was windy as hell!

The Walpa Gorge track was just along the road back towards the sunset viewing area. The moderate 2.6 km walk was beautiful, though still very windy. A friendly man offered to take my photo - nice!

From the gorge I drove to the sunset viewing area and watched the truly beautiful color changes on Kata Tjuta and the background sky as the sun went down.

Before I left Alice I had booked to do the Field of Light tour on Saturday evening. That was my last night at Ayers Rock Resort as I had bought a `pay for two nights & get three` camping deal for $114, so was leaving Sunday. I still had to do the Mala walk to Kantju Gorge, so Saturday morning I headed back to `the Rock`. Mala walk is an easy, flat track that follows along a one kilometer section of the base of Ulura. There are several significant Anangu sites for both men and women along this walk with details and traditional stories explained on several placards enroute. 

It was my favorite walk and one where I could not only see evidence of a culture dating back many thousands of years but could feel a sense of spirituality. 

 

At the Mala walk and other various walking tracks and viewing sites around Uluru there are lots of amazing timber bench seats, most of which are under shelters made of completely natural timber with grass thatched rooves. Absolute works of art.

After my Mala walk I drove my second loop of Uluru, only clockwise this time. Every time I looked at this huge monolith I saw and felt something different...something very special. I think it`s appropriate that climbing it is now taboo, though I must admit to climbing it myself in the 1990`s and scaring myself shitless! When I now look at steep and dangerous that climb is I am not surprised that more than 30 people died in the process from when visitors began climbing it in the late 1930`s through until October 26, 2019 when it was closed.

Six o`clock that night a luxury coach picked me up from the caravan park and transported me, along with 30 or so other people, to a sand dune at the back of the resort overlooking Uluru. As the sun sank in the western sky we were plied with wine, beer, champagne and a delectable, individually boxed assortment of canapes while taking in the stunning views. Then, as the sky darkened, the massive field below came alive with lights. It was magnificent. 

Field of Light is an epic art piece created by Bruce Munro. Covering four football fields, more than 50,000 solar powered stems light up in a range of colors that change every few seconds. I purchased a Star Pass for $98 which included the transfers, drinks, food and access to wander through the field. It was great value and I absolutely loved it.

Sunday morning I packed up camp, hitched the van and left Yulara around 10am. Getting to Kings Canyon meant backtracking along the Lasseter highway for about 150 km before turning north onto Luritja road. From there it was about another 170 km to Watarrka National Park in which the George Gill Range and Kings Canyon are located. There are two camping options in the area - Kings Creek Station at the entry to the park and Kings Canyon Resort some 40 km further in and closer to the canyon. Wikicamps had iffy reviews on both and I had spoken to other travelers who had given varying reports. I pulled into the station and went for a bit of a wander. It was not very impressive so I made the decision to continue on. I would pay for one night at the resort and if not happy with it could always come back. But on arrival at Kings Canyon Resort I was actually pleasantly surprised. I checked in for one night paying $30 for a power then chose a lovely site with views out over the range.

Later that day I wandered over to the Thirsty Dingo Bar and joined quite a few other resort guests seeking refuge from the heat and enjoyed a glass of bubbles.

Before dark James and I headed up to the sunset viewing platform. It was a great spot with beautiful views and a retro caravan that has been made into a bar. Unfortunately that was closed due to Covid but most of us who had strolled over from our vans and tents had a drink in hand so it didn`t matter. James, as usual, did the rounds and picked up a few friends.

I was up bright and early next morning to do the Kings Canyon Rim walk before the sun got too hot. From conversations I`d had at the viewing platform the evening before it appeared there were quite a few of us doing the same thing which was good given it was supposedly a pretty challenging climb in parts. I was happy to have others around in case something went awry. The information leaflet read `....has many steep sections and is only recommended for reasonably fit and healthy walkers`. As I stood at the bottom of the canyon at 8am looking up at the initial climb I considered that was a bit of an understatement! The rough stone steps went pretty well straight up a sloping side of the gorge to the top in one go....not for anyone scared of heights! I had to stop and get my breath on several occasions. I could see why there was a medical station at the top with an emergency phone, defribillator and heli-pad! 

 

But the views and photo opportunities were worth every bit of the effort! 

Atop the going was a lot easier though there was still a lot of clambering to do around, between and over a beehive-like maze of weathered sand stone formations and undulating rock. The many unguarded sheer drops of the canyon walls were stunning but could also be treacherous if one was not sure-footed. The views were incredible. 

About half way around the 6km loop there is a very steep descent down into the end of the canyon to the Garden of Eden, a beautiful area of riverine vegetation with a deep waterhole. Being a sacred indigenous site swimming is not permitted although I must admit it would be really tempting to jump in in hot weather.

After a strenuous climb back up from the rock hole it was time to take a breather before continuing on the second part of the trail to see the opposite wall of the gorge. It was interesting to photograph across to the spots I had stood on the edge and taken photos. I was pretty buggered towards the end so the somewhat easier down hill track to the carpark was a welcome relief. The Rim walk had taken me just on three hours and I was pleased I had avoided the afternoon heat. It's a fantastic walk if you are reasonably fit with no heart or lung problems, wear solid gripping footwear and watch your step. If heights scare you.....forget it!

With only two short walks still to do at Watarrka National Park I decided I would leave next morning and do both those walks on the way out. I had planned to stay a third night but apparently, so a resort staff member told me when I got back to camp after the Rim walk, James had carried on a treat in the van for hours the day before. Bugger! I reckon he gets scared when I leave him in the van and drive off in the car. By doing the final two walks as I left he would be in the van with the car attached and just see me walk away - not drive away. That seemed to work fine cos I didn`t hear a peep as I was leaving or returning. 

The 2 km Kings Creek walk follows the canyon floor about two thirds the way up. The roughly formed pathway meanders along-side the currently empty creek bed and amazing rock formations. At the end is an aesthetically appropriate platform that is built around some of the huge sections of canyon that have collapsed down into the gorge. The view from below of the sheer walls above is stunning. 

The second walk at Kathleen Springs was several kilometers east along the range. The easy 2.6 km return walk passes by old stock yards and ends at a spring-fed waterhole. It was a nice walk though not as spectacular as the gorge.

It was late morning by the time I departed Watarrka National Park. My experiences in the Red Centre exploring Kings Canyon, Uluru and Kata Tjuta were wonderful and I will carry the breathtaking images in my mind forever. There is a real spirituality about this region of Australia and I have developed an even stronger empathy and respect for the traditional land holders. It`s incredible that their culture has flourished in this beautiful but harsh environment with which they have clearly lived in harmony for well over 40,000 years.